When is an On-Site Sewage System Permit needed?

A Septic Permit is needed anytime you construct, replace, expand or significantly alter your on-site sewage system.  A permit is not required if you plan to replace or fix a broken pipe.

Can I design my own On-Site Sewage System?

State Sewage Regulations require that either a Licensed Sewage System Designer or Registered Professional Engineer design On-Site Sewage Systems.  The State issues Licenses for Designers and Engineers.  A licensed Designer or properly trained Engineer can provide you with specifications for a septic system.

Can I install my own On-site Sewage System after I obtain a Permit?

Yes, with some conditions. Homeowners may install most , but not all, types of OSS. Before installing an OSS the homeowner must pass a County administered test. The County has a study guide for the test.

Do you have a copy of my On-Site Sewage System Permit?

We have records that go back to the 1970's.  Make sure you have the tax parcel number of the property, the street address and owner name when you contact us.

How frequently should I pump my septic tank?

We recommend that you have your on-site sewage system inspected every year and the septic tank pumped once every three to five years.  We have information about inspecting your tank to see if it needs to be pumped.  Your septic tank must be pumped by a Licensed Sewage System Pumper.  State law requires that every gravity septic system is inspected at least every three years and all other systems every year.

What are some signs that my On-site Sewage System is failing?

Some warning signs of a failure are:

• Odors, surfacing sewage, soggy spots with lush green grass growth in the drainfield or septic tank area.
• Plumbing or septic tank backups
• Slow draining fixtures
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system

If you suspect that your sewage system is failing, contact Environmental Health for assistance.

How can I find my septic tank?

If you have an "as-built plan", locating the septic tank will be easy. Copies of most as-built plans are available from our office. If one is not available you or your pumper will need to use some investigative skills. If a crawl space is available you may determine where the plumbing leaves the foundation wall, then use a probe bar to find the tank. Fiberglass or polyethylene tanks can be ruptured with a probe bar, so use caution.  Probing works best if the tank is not more than 1 to 2 feet under the surface.

If these options don't work it may be necessary to use an electronic detection device with a transmitter that can be flushed down the toilet.

What is the "reserve area"?